Monday, June 10, 2013

How Cup Edges Affect Fit

Continuing our series on how aspects of your bra affect your fit today we're looking at cup edges. If you have full on top breasts this feature of a bra will matter more to you than someone who is shallow on top. A hard or soft cup edge can be the difference between pillowing over the cup or a smooth look so knowing which edges work for you can improve your fit.

There are four bra edges: tapered, elasticated, molded and fixed. 

(L) Jasmine uses stretch lace to create a tapered edge (R) Loretta uses nylon and embroidery to taper the cup

Tapered edge bras are the most universally friendly because they're designed to come to a fine, delicate edge that doesn't create any pressure on your upper bust. Most commonly lace, embroidery and nylon are used to create a fine edge.

(L) Idina and (R) Profile Perfect use an elasticated edge to add more support to the upper breast
Elasticated edges are designed to stay close to your body. If you have full on top breasts the elastic can indent the soft upper tissue on your breast and make it look like you're spilling. Elasticated edges are great for women looking to minimize bounce through the upper tissue.

Molded bras like Maxine have a rigid molded edge so you need to be careful to choose the right shape for your breast

Molded edges can also cause a spilling look for full on top breasts if the shape or size isn't right. A molded edge may appear as a ridge under clothing if the cup is thick. You may find that you have some upper-tissue bounce in a molded cup as the edge of the cup doesn't hold down the breast. Non-rigid molded cups (seamless soft cup bras) can have an elasticated edge.

(L) Tango II and (R) Lottie have fixed edges

Fixed edge cups simply mean there is no elastic in the edge and no tapering. This works for lots of women as the edge lies flat against the breast without creating any indent. Again, however, women with full on top breasts may find that fixed edge cups cause a spilling look if the cup shape is wrong for them.

I hope this short guide to bra edges helps you choose the right bra edge for your shape and support preferences. xx


  1. What would you say about Cleo Lucy's cup edge? Is it fixed or tapered? I cannot quite decide.

    1. That's a good question and the answer is, both. The edge is tapered so that it's finer under clothing. However the edge isn't elasticated so it is fixed which can make it tricky for very full on top breasts. I hope that doesn't confuse things further! xx

  2. Great post and great series!

    BTW I had a huge disappointment with Loretta, because edges of the cups were cutting in and there were gaps near the apex. Judging from cup depth measurement it could fit fine if only the lace was elasticized or more relaxed. I'm not "full on top" I'm wide and shallow and I had such problem with other bras. AFAIK other girls with that shape have similar problems, too.

    1. Did you try the Loretta plunge or full cup? The sheer fixed tapered panel on Loretta definitely limited how many women could wear this style. I find teardrop shapes to be friendliest for wide and shallow breasts xx

    2. Plunge. It was really a shame, because it's very breathable (hello, summer) and beautiful. I like the lace and I think Loretta straps are one of the best designs I've ever seen.
      Thank you for the tip! )